You know what it is like: one day, while dusting a tall shelf you never look at you discover lying there an old diary, some faded photographs, or something else that catches your attention. You think “Oh! I’ll just take a quick look”, and suddenly you feel transported to long bygone days. Memories start storming into your brain as so many desperate shoppers on the opening day of the sales; old flames make your heart miss a beat, and long unheard-of friends make you wonder what ever became of them and why were you not more disciplined in keeping in touch. Exactly this happened to me recently. I found an old notebook lying around; it contained some notes I jotted down during a cycling holiday in Scotland nearly 20 years ago, and although it is far from complete, it brought memories of that trip and that time sharply into focus.
As a rule, this blog is about books written by others, that I have read (and mostly liked). But today I am going to make an exception: I am going to write about a book that never got written, but if it had, it would have been written by me. To be more precise, I am going to reproduce that book, what little got written of it. It is not too long. Here it goes:
Ullapool, 5th August 1996
Well, I don’t think I ever did so little planning in preparation of a cycling holiday as I did for this one, but so far it has worked out rather well. On Wednesday I said at work that I was going, or thinking of going. On Saturday I booked by BR ticket from Crewe to Inverness; on Sunday I travelled, and here I am on Monday. Actually, the getting to Inverness was rather eventful. At Stoke Railway Station I was told first that one of the many trains I had to take (Glasgow-Perth) already had its quota of bicycle reservations covered, so I could not travel either on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. In a second attempt, booking was possible from Crewe to Edinburgh, but from Edinburgh to Inverness there were already to bikes booked, and this is BR’s quota of bikes on trains (incredibly). Nevertheless the ticket salesman told me that if I asked nicely, chances were that the guard would let me on the train, so I decided to risk it. Needless to say, the first thing the train guard said when he saw me approaching the Inverness train at Edinburgh station was “Where’s your bike reservation?”, before I could even blink. When I explained that I didn’t have one he was furious, but not because there were already two bikes on the train, but because he thought that I was trying to get away without paying the reservation. In a nervous, stammering fashion, I muddled things up further trying to explain that I would pay for the reservation, but BR simply would not allow me to. Looking sternly down on me from his train window, he said that without a reservation I was not getting on the train. I then explained, in my most heart-felt impersonation of a dejected, miserable, rain-soaked kitten, that I would be stranded in Edinburgh, and offered to pay the reservation to him. At that, his iron heart softened a little, and he decided to let me on the train, but not without first swearing strongly for my benefit.
When I finally arrived at Inverness it was already 9:40 pm, and daylight was fading fast. I was fortunate enough to find my way to the B&B I had booked the day before, which was on 2 Glengarry Road, close to the Caledonian Canal, towards the west of the city. The old lady at the house was worried that I would not find it in the dark, but I knew where it was supposed to be in some detail, thanks to a clear street map that I found at the station.
I got a takeaway for supper, some disgusting chicken curry with chips, and took it home to eat while chatting with my lady host. She was rather talkative, and while I downed the spicy grub she told me about her son, an engineer who worked in the construction of the Kyle of Lochalsh bridge to Skye, something of which she didn’t sound terribly proud. He now is building another bridge, one that will link Denmark with Sweden across the Baltic sea.
Today I had an early start. I was called at ten to seven, as wanted to take the train to Kyle of Lochalsh, leaving Inverness at ten past eight. I had my first cooked breakfast for a while, and then headed for the station. I didn’t go all the way to Kyle, but left the train at Garve, the most convenient station for heading to Ullapool, following the A835. The sky has been cloudy all day, and there has been a light but persistent drizzle more or less all afternoon, but so far the weather has been kind to me, as I have enjoyed today one of those very rare occurrences in cycling: having the wind on your back rather than against you.
With the help of the wind the journey was a real pleasure, in spite of the fact that the views weren’t quite as impressive as they would have otherwise been, given the overcast sky. I rolled along a moderately busy road, but not busy enough as to be a pain, and as a rule cars gave me plenty of space. After twelve miles or so I decided to stop at an inn claiming to be the last one for another twenty miles; I thought it would be a good place to stop and have some coffee. I was also given some supposedly home-made shortbread; just what I needed: plenty of sugar and fat to confront the miles ahead with a cheery disposition. The inn was located just before the dam at Loch Glascarnoch. You can still feel the aftermath of last year’s exceptionally warm summer in the low waterlines of the lochs around here, which is a good few metres below the normal one.
Further along the road, just beyond the junction where the road coming from Gairloch meets the A835, is the Corrieshalloch Gorge, with fantastic views of the water below running among the rocks. The bridge from which you get the view as a notice board saying “No more than 6 persons on this bridge at any one time”, and oscillates noticeably enough to send shivers down the spine of a height-chicken like me. Nevertheless it was fun.
There were some nice descents down to Loch Broom from the gorge, and I fully enjoyed them. There are, I am sure, few sensations that can withstand comparison with a freewheel down a hill in the Highlands of Scotland (or anywhere else for that matter) with the fresh air pumping up your lungs and throwing your hair in disarray behind you.
After that it was all plain sailing, more or less, into Ullapool, 31 miles from Garve. Not bad for the first day of cycling, though in my opinion, covering large distances was never the purpose of a cycling tour. I think it must have been around 2 pm when I came into Ullapool, which felt rather busy, with lots of people around.
Of course, my first concern was to find accommodation. I had not made my mind as to staying or continuing along the road at this stage, and I was seriously considering the possibility of pushing further ahead. The Youth Hostel had two “female” beds available, but they wouldn’t give one to me, for some reason. I was told that there was another hostel, an independent one, and was given directions, but I came to the other end of town without finding it. At that point I found a B&B called “Primavera”, and the Spanish name made me go for it. Alas, it was in vain, but a German lady there directed me to the hostel I hadn’t been able to find earlier on, and fortunately they did have vacancies, so I decided to stay.
The hostel had one shower only, which leaked from the hose, so that the flow of water you could count with for your shower was of very little pressure, and most of the water ended directly on the floor. The kitchen, however, was very nice. The warden was an Australian girl who looked like Lulu.
There was not very much to do in Ullapool, other than visit tourist shops of one kind or another, so I did a bit of that; the rest of my afternoon was spent writing this diary. Then I cooked some spaghetti with a mushroom, tomato and onion sauce, which served its purpose but it was otherwise not very inspiring.
After attending to the basic needs of the cyclist’s tummy, I was ready to attend to other, less basic needs. I thus went for a pint of Guiness to the Caledonian Hotel with a Swiss guy also staying at the hostel. He was a very nice chap, an engineer from Zurich, and we chatted for a while. Among the topics covered, we discussed about how Spanish people stick together when on holiday and don’t interact too much with the locals, most likely because of the language barrier, I suppose.
Ullapool to Achmelvich, 6th August
Today I had a much harder day than yesterday. I covered approximately 33-34 miles, involving many more climbs than yesterday’s gentle introduction. The first climb came immediately after leaving Ullapool, and that was tough enough, but it was only a warning of what was still to come. Had it been the only climb, it would not have been bad, but it was only the first of many. I noticed that probably Elsa (sorry, I should have introduced Elsa, the main character in this story, before: Elsa is my bike, a wonderful lioness) does not have quite as low gears as most bikes around, as I found myself having to push her up hills that others could climb without much apparent difficulty. Maybe, though, it is just that I am simply less athletic than average.
I followed the A835 for about 10 miles, during which every climb was followed by a rather splendid descent. At the bottom of one of those descents I was close to suffering a potentially severe accident with Elsa. I did something rather stupid out of lack of concentration: I switched to lowest gear while still being on the biggest plate. Since my chain is shorter than it should be, having once been broken, it was in such tension that the gear mechanism became entangled, and had I tried to pedal any harder than I actually did, the whole think would have been left in such a mess that probably I would have had to go back home. Fortunately, nothing was damaged beyond repair and it was just a case of moving the pedals by hand to get the chain back into position.
… And there it ends, I’m afraid. I can’t really recall why no more of this diary was written at the time. Possibly because the climbs and head winds didn’t give me much respite, and I was too tired to write in the evenings. Anyway, the trip continued uneventfully; I cycled up to the very north-west corner of Scotland, and then along the rugged landscape of the north coast. Eventually making it into Aberdeen, from where, after much trying with another helpful BR ticket saleswoman, I managed to book a ticket for both Elsa and myself, back to normal life. I now wish I had been more persistent with my writing, but there you are, that’s as far as it gets. As usual, comments welcome.